In the land where I was born

Sing along! I’m sure there’s a way that I could provide a soundtrack for this post, and I am as equally sure that it would be a copyright violation like saying that I made these sandwiches as my contribution to a Super Bowl party… So let’s just say that I am going to a Superb Owl party and leave it at that. Nope, I’m not going for the game; there have been years that I didn’t even make it to the kickoff.

According to Wikipedia: Another theory suggests the submarine was brought to the U.S. by Dominic Conti (1874–1954), an Italian immigrant who came to New York in the early 1900s. He is said to have named it after seeing the recovered 1901 submarine called Fenian Ram in the Paterson Museum of New Jersey in 1918. His granddaughter has stated the following: “My grandfather came to this country circa 1895 from Montella, Italy. Around 1910, he started his grocery store, called Dominic Conti’s Grocery Store, on Mill Street in Paterson, New Jersey where he was selling the traditional Italian sandwiches. His sandwiches were made from a recipe he brought with him from Italy which consisted of a long crust roll, filled with cold cuts, topped with lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, onions, oil, vinegar, Italian herbs and spices, salt, and pepper. The sandwich started with a layer of cheese and ended with a layer of cheese (this was so the bread wouldn’t get soggy).

IMG_5038My story starts yesterday with an excursion to celebrate (Lunar New Year version) Sally Kemp’s triumph over stomach cancer. This is no ordinary triumph. Sally is 80 (81 on Friday) and was pretty far down the road with the cancer when it was found last year. After 2 rounds of chemo and being blasted and just about destroyed by radiation therapy her entire stomach was removed. We almost lost her a couple times (at least). Not only has she come back, she has turned into a food-obsessed eating machine. The other day I popped to find her watching a cooking show, eating IMG_5043crackers and reading a British food magazine with a cookbook tucked in beside her on the chair known as Comfy. So yesterday, needing to get cold cuts to make sandwiches for today and having promised Sally that we would celebrate every new year that we could lay our hands on for a full year after she was declared cancer free right before Rosh Hashanah, we headed out for San Gabriel to go to one of LA’s best Italian delis and then get long Shanghai style noodles for lunch.

Claro’s is the size that “supermarkets” used to be before they turned into football field sized warehouses with an emphasis on processed food. They have lovely stuff, mostly imported and a first rate deli counter where you’d better have your act together when ordering. The first time I went there I asked one of the deli-men if the sausage was good. His reply was “We’ve been making it since 1948, lady. What the hell do you think?!?” That will teach me to ask stupid questions. Sally was in heaven, especially pleased with a big hunk of Parmesan that has a nice rind, which will enrich her next bread soup (sign me up for that!!).

Next stop Emperor Noodle – or as Siri calls it “Burn Doodle”. XLB and Duck Noodle with a side of Steamed Broccoli (enough fill us up and to take a bowl home to Heidi who was working and could not go along with us).  We just beat the rush. When we left I heard people behind me fighting over our now empty table.

IMG_5046OK – back to the Submarine. Before you scream, I intentionally switched to ciabatta, so we will call these Italian Sandwiches instead. But what’s inside is the real deal. The meat sandwich has Alpino Salami, Baked Ham, Capicola, Hot Head Cheese, Provolone, lettuce, tomato, red onion, oil and vinegar, oregano, IMG_5045and olives. The veggie version omits the meats, adds fresh mozzarella, mushrooms and fried artichoke hearts. They are currently resting under a board to give them just a slight press and will be served with my home brew mustard and pepperoncini along side them. Check back later for more photos and report on the rest of the spread from the party – Cuisine of New Jersey – “All that glitters in the Garden State”.

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Avgolemono is not a kind of soup!

IMG_4958I’ll get back to that thought, but first let me tell you about my new neighbor. So, here’s the story of the Sunday surprise.

Now, some of you know about where I live but some don’t – I live in a lovely (oldest and largest in the US) bungalow court. The owner’s nephew/cousin/relation-by-marriage newly arrived from Greece has moved into the “teahouse” which is above the laundry & tool room across the way from me. Well, it turns out that he is a professional chef and tonight he showed his stuff.

I was having one of those lazy afternoons after errands (and my nails) were done, dozing on the sofa when there was a knock on the door. It was my neighbor Heidi come to say that Demetrius (afore mentioned nephew/cousin/relation-by-marriage) was cooking in her kitchen and did I want to come for a bowl of soup. Well, hell yes! So I went over to her house and found out just how much Demetrius really truly LOVES to cook AND can skillfully wield and knife! We watched and listened as he prepped vegetables and chicken and made a pot of soup that will last three people and a few others more than a couple of days.

What he explained to us was that while you go into restaurants in the US and find avogolemono soup on the menu (and it is invariable chicken with rice), it is not a thing unto itself at all; it is rather, a technique. It’s the method of using the beaten egg to thicken the soup – not like egg drop soup: there should be no distinct bits of egg at all.It would be like putting roux on the menu as an entree…

So he made chicken and vegetable soup. The prep took far longer than the cooking and you could taste all the separate ingredients in their fresh goodness. Chicken and peppers and onion and leeks and parsley and wine and mushrooms. Oh, and of course lemon and egg…

Demetrius said that when you feed people they smell and taste and use all their senses. When that brings back memories and makes them feel good it makes him happy. Clearly it made him happy…and Heidi too.  Then he told us about the caramel apple cake…

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I’m going to feel this in the morning…

…but it’s not going to be the alcohol that’s the problem…

My friend Kathleen is a renowned cookie baker. She has offered them up as rewards in fundraising campaigns, and people she works with have access to them as treats year-round. Tonight I found out more about the mad mastermind behind the holiday cookie-baking bonanza.

Last weekend was her annual baking bash (I hope to get to join in THAT fun next year) when she and a few friends baked 1,000 cookies of all types along with a few things like peppermint bark and fudge that are more properly categorized as candy, but let’s not split semantic hairs. Midweek she came up with a great idea – a half-dozen other lucky people and I were invited to partake tonight in a cookie tasting.

IMG_4749We sat down to get started as the sun was setting over a great view on one of those 80° days that makes the rest of the country wish they were Southern California. Our hostess explained that we would have several “courses”, each accompanied by a well-planned beverage pairing. The complete list is below the photo break. We started with Cranberry juice and champagne cocktail and a shortbread cookie with eggnog butter cream frosting dusted with nutmeg. It paired well with the champagne (but what doesn’t go with a glass of bubbly?).

We took a break midway through the affair for some palate-cleansing savories – I made my once-a-year chicken liver pate, based on a recipe from Bon Appetit from the 70s that had 1/2 a pound of butter to a pound of liver, an onion, an apple and some cognac. I’ve cut down the butter by more than half, but it’s still pretty rich. That, along with hummus, some gherkins, spicy bread and butter pickles and fabulous 3-cheese and roasted tomato bruschetta took the sugar edge off and we were ready to dive back in.

CHAMPAGNE AND CRANBERRY COCKTAIL

  • Eggnog butter cream with nutmeg shortbread
  • Chocolate dipped sugar cookie with dried apricot – the best black & white I’ve ever had
  • Coconut macaroons

EGGNOG

  • Classic American chocolate chip made with butter flavored Crisco!
  • Molasses spice – soft and yummy – frosted or unfrosted (I’m a purist and went unadorned)

HOT SPICED APPLE CIDER WITH CINNAMON SCHNAPPS FOR THE “BALL” COURSE

  • Classic rum balls
  • Coconut rum balls
  • Orange nonalcoholic balls – with lots of zest!
  • Spiced rum balls
  • Fruitcake cookies
  • Reindeer droppings (was my leg being pulled at this point – a cornflake butterscotch thingy)
  • Peanut butter peanut butter chip
  • Thumbprint cookie with jam
  • A soft tart lemon cookie that was made with a secret ingredient that is hard to find in Southern California but can be imported from Wisconsin. Anyway it was a rocking good cookie.

COFFEE – with Bailey’s and any number of other additions – we’ve finally made it to dessert!

  • Hidden kiss. Looks like a nun’s fart but it has a secret chocolate center
  • Laura Bush’s Cowboy cookies – Way way better the George Bush’s art!
  • Oatmeal craisin cookies
  • Baileys Irish cream white fudge
  • Peppermint bark

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Well after the sun had fully set we were in kitchen packing ourselves bags to take home. There were no bad cookies in the bunch, but if I had to pick a favorite it would be the orange balls!

God bless us, EVERYONE! And to all a goodnight. Yes, I know I’m mixing my Christmas metaphors, but I’ve mixed my Christmas cookies pretty severely too!

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Cooking in Jennie’s Kitchen

…with lots of people milling about no less: not the time to deep fry.

As you all know, food is my window on the world. Professionally, I have just transitioned from one food-justice job to an even better one. After 20 months as the Director of the Hunger Initiative of the Los Angeles Jewish Federation, I am now the Director of Development of L.A. Kitchen. After 18 years in at the very fabulous Will Geer Theatricum Botanicum, I found my way to food, and L.A. Kitchen is by far the most exciting organization I have been involved with since making that life-change. Check us out!

Looking back at 2013, it turns out that my Potato Cakes with Goat Cheese started this year too and now they are helping to wrap it up. I did a little fiddling with the recipe – I squeezed out the water from the potatoes and left out the milk as the batter had always seemed a little watery, especially the 3rd of the 3 cakes that this quantity makes.

My friend, writer Jennie Webb, and her husband James throw two for-sure parties each year. Jim is in charge of Super Bowl, with food themed to the teams playing or the city hosting – 2010 was gumbo and 2012 was a chowdah cook-off! Of course there were crab cakes this year. 2014 will be played in East Rutherford NJ; I hope the teams provide inspiration for the menu! Sometimes there is a smaller gathering on Memorial Day or the Fourth of July – an All-American BBQ; I’ll generally make potato salad for that.

But, it’s Jennie’s Christmas party that I enjoy the most. Being short, it’s hard for me to be in a crush, and this party is a feat of packing the house – with people, food and high spirits. I always see some people that I hadn’t seen since last year’s party and meet new ones, but being basically very shy I need a prop. For me, as always, that’s food. I make sure that Jennie has a burner available for me and do all my prep ahead at home. This is the second time I’ve done the Potato Cakes, and the lesson from the first time was to make double the recipe! They cook slowly, so I mostly hang out at or within sight of the stove – someone always comes along when I’ve stepped away and thinks the pan needs tending. My kids will tell you that lifting the lid on a pot on my stove might turn out to be a capital crime (if it’s rice you could ruin it!).

I didn’t get any photos last night so check them out from New Year’s Day breakfast.

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Quick and yummy on a Sunday afternoon

Far be it for me to see a recipe that sounds interesting and just follow it. OH, NO! It has to turn into something completely different. This week I came across a recipe for Gruyere and pepper cookies. Not being super focused on sweets I liked this idea – a little crunchy something that you could serve with wine or cocktails and some olives. (By the way, I am down to less than a quart from the great olive adventure of 2011. They are seasoned with bay leaves, orange peel and fennel seeds and they are still just as good as can be!)

So I took my orange olive oil biscotti recipe and adapted it and came up with some delicious cheese and chive biscotti. Now, where’s the corkscrew?

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